Alfa Romeo Alfetta & GTV
Introduced
in 1972, the new Alfetta (or Alfa Romeo Sports Sedan in the US) introduced
a completely new drivetrain layout to production Alfa Romeo's. It utilised
a de Dion rear suspension with the clutch and transmission housed at the
rear together with the differential to give a good weight distribution,
as used on the 159 Grand Prix cars. The front end utilised double wishbones
and torsion bars. The body was a conventional three-box, four door saloon
designed by Giugiaro and it was fitted with a modified 1750 engine, now
with a capacity of 1779cc and producing 122bhp.
1974 saw the introduction of a two door
coupe, the Alfetta GT, designed by Giugiaro and Alfa Romeo. It shared the
same chassis, with a shortened wheelbase, and engine, but was much more
sporting in appearance with a drag coefficient of 0.39. One of its quirkier
details was the positioning of the instruments, the revcounter was directly
in front of the driver, whilst the speedometer and other guages were in
the centre of the dashboard. This layout drew much criticism and later
the speedo and rev counter were exchanged. In 1976 the 1800 engine was
dropped and two models, the Alfetta GT, now with a 1600 engine (1570cc
and 109bhp), 
and
the GTV2000 (1962cc and 122bhp) were introduced.
In 1974/5 the range was revised. The 1.6
Alfetta was introduced, powered by the old 1570cc engine with 109bhp whilst
the 1.8 was mildly facelifted, mainly internally. The two models were easy
to differentiate from the outside since the 1.8 continued with four round
headlights, whilst the 1.6 had only two. In the same year the US market
got a 2000 engine, with fuel injection.
It took until 1977 for the 2000 engine
to become available in the Alfetta in Europe. The 1962cc with twin carburettors
produced 122bhp as installed in the 'Alfetta 2000'. The interior was also
mildly revised and the base models received square headlights. In the following
year the 2-litre unit in both berlina and coupe was mildly re-tuned (new
camshafts) to give 130bhp. The following year saw the arrival of another
addition to the range with the introduction of the Alfetta Turbo D which
used a VM 1995cc turbo diesel engine generating 82bhp.
The arrival of the Alfetta GTV 2000 Turbodelta,
also in 1979, gave the range a serious performance model. Developed for
rallying (Group 4) by Autodelta, the engine was turbocharged to produce
175bhp (compression ratio down to 7.1:1, 9psi boost, KKK turbocharger,
blow through carburettors), the suspension was modified and they all had matt black bonnets.
1980 saw the range revised with modernising touches such as black plastic bumpers
replacing the chrome one's of earlier cars. The GTV gained a 'normal' instrument
layout, with everything in front of the driver, and the power rose slightly to 130bhp.
1981 saw a new, more potent, addition to
the range, the GTV6. This used the 2492cc V6 engine from the Alfa
6 in the Alfetta GT bodyshell. The engine was fitted with the Bosch
L-Jetronic fuel injection system and produced 160bhp and 220Nm torque.
The mechanicals remained basically the same as the 2-litre cars, with various
modifications to cope with the additional power. These latter included
the adoption of a twin-plate clutch. From the outside the GTV6 is easily
recogniseable due to the large bulge in the bonnet. At the end of 1981
the whole range was mildly revised with small detail changes to trim and equipment.
The final version of the saloon was the
'Gold Cloverleaf', launched in 1982, with fuel injection, electronic ignition
and, from 1983, variable valve timing (two position). 1983 also saw the
arrival of a 2393cc Turbodiesel (95bhp) and minor revisions to all of the range.
See our Alfa
Romeo Concept Cars page for the Zeta 6 (GTV6 based coupe) and
Alfetta
Spider prototype, or our pictures from the Alfa
Romeo Museum which also includes the Alfetta Spider plus the later Alfetta based Eagle Spider.
The Alfetta chassis (already used for the Giulietta)
later evolved into both the 90 and the 75,
the latter really succeeding the Alfetta in the model range. Production
of the Alfetta continued until 1984. Total volumes were :
| 1.8 Berlina |
183,427 |
| 1.6 Berlina |
82,512 |
| Diesel |
29,951 |
| GT 1800 |
21,948 |
| GT 1600 |
16,923 |
| GTV 2000 |
74,816 |
| GTV6 |
21,695 |
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Technical Details
| Driveline |
longitudinal engine at front, gearbox,
clutch and differential mounted at rear with rear wheel drive |
| Engine |
1779cc (80x88.5mm) dohc 4 cyl with 122bhp @ 5,500rpm
1567cc (78x82mm) dohc 4 cyl with 109bhp @ 5,600rpm
1962cc (84x88.5mm) dohc 4 cyl with 130bhp @ 5,400rpm
Turbo : 1962cc (84x88.5mm) dohc turbocharged 4 cyl with 175bhp @ 5,500rpm
GTV6 : 2492cc (88x68.3mm) sohc V6 with 160bhp @ 5,600rpm |
| Suspension |
front
: double wishbones with telescopic dampers and torsion bar plus anti-roll bar
rear
: de Dion with transverse link, coil springs and telescopic dampers and anti-roll bar
wheelbase : 2510mm (GT/GTV/6 : 2400mm)
front track : 1360mm (GTV6 1374mm)
rear track : 1358mm (GTV6 1351mm) |
| Brakes |
front : discs, diameter 261.6mm
rear : discs, mounted inboard, diameter 248.9mm
handbrake operating on the rear callipers via cable
hydraulic circuit with servo assistance |
| Gearbox |
5 speed manual
hydraulic clutch
disc diameter : 215mm (1600 from 1979 200mm)
GTV6 had twin disc, diamater 190mm |
| Steering |
Rack and pinion (optional power assistance on some models)
3.7 turns lock to lock |
| Kerb weight |
GTV : 1000kg; GTV6 : 1210kg |
Click here for a cutaway drawing of the Alfetta saloon.
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Performance
| model |
max speed |
0-60mph |
Standing km |
| Alfetta 2000 |
113 mph |
9.4 sec |
|
| GTV 2000 L (1979) |
186 km/h |
9.7 sec (100km/h) |
31.26 sec |
| GTV6 |
128 mph |
8.9 sec |
|
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Tuning
1. The engine.
Before modifying the engine it is worthwhile
filling it with a good quality synthetic oil and fitting new spark plugs.
An engine oil additive may also be used.
The first improvements are relatively simple.
The air filter can be replaced for an aftermarket item which will help
the engine breathe more freely, the type which completely replace the original
unit are best, and the exhaust can be replaced for one which will restrict
the exit of the gases less. The complete system should be replaced, not
just the rear section.
There are a number of modifications possible depending upon which model you have.
For the four cylinder carburettored models,
larger carburettors (45 DCOEs) will work well with improvements to the
breathing and exhaust. A camshaft will also provide a noticeable gain,
especially if fitted in conjuction with the carburettors. For those fuel
injected versions an aftermarket programmable module is one option, the
other is to replace the fuel injection system with carburettors. The latter
is popular due to the 'primitveness' of the early Bosch systems which have
limited tuning potential.
For the V6 engines, the options are similar.
The carburettors from the Alfa 6 can be used and will allow, through bigger
jets and chokes, a significant increase in power. Alternatively, an aftermarket
module will allow the injection system to be retained and improved. In
the V6 it is possible to use the 164 camshafts which
will provide a good hike in power whilst retaining excellent driveability.
The ultimate option is to fit the 3.0 litre unit, the one from the 75
will drop almost straight in.
Other things to do should include fitting
a cold air intake, a large diameter pipe (minimum 5cm) to provide air from
outside the engine bay to the air filter. The exhaust manifold(s) can also
be lagged with thermal cloth or tape to keep the exhaust gases hotter (and
thus reduce back pressure) and also to keep the underbonnet (and hence
intake and fuel) temperatures lower.
The high tension leads can also be replaced
with performance ones.
Further modifications require the machining
of the cylinder headand/or cylinder block (which will not be dealt with
here since it is not normally a DIY job) after which it may be worth fitting
an oil cooler. If overheating is a problem due to the increased power output
then a small hole can also be drilled through the plate in the thermostat.
Regarding the transmission the main requirement
is to uprate the clutch to handle the increase in power and torque achieved
though the engine modifications. Friction plates can be purchased with
improved materials and heavier duty pressure plates are also available.
The GTV6 has a special twin plate clutch which can be replaced by a standard
75
3.0 V6 item (these are cheaper and easier to find). Whilst doing this it
is worthwhile lightening the flywheel.
2. The brakes.
Initially it is relatively easy to replace the brake discs with drilled and grooved
items, and the pads for a harder compound. The latter should not be too
hard (ie no race pads on the road) or they will not function effectively
at the normal 'road' operating temperatures. Stainles steel braided flexible
hoses will improve the pedal feel and reduce the chance of damage whilst
DoT5 fluid (not silicon) will increase the temperature at which it can
operate effectively. If the brakes are getting too hot the dustguards can
be removed and/or ducts fitted, taking air from behind the front bumper.
If more serious braking is required the
next modification would be to increase the disc size. It is possible to
use larger discs with a bracket allowing use of the production callipers,
or alloy four pot callipers can be fitted. At the rear it is possible to
fit the vented discs from the SZ with an adaptor
plate to mount the original callipers.
In order to improve the balance of the
car under braking it is desireable to be able to adjust the balance of
braking from front to rear (and vice versa). This can be accomplished by
fitting a bias valve in the line to the rear brakes, usually in a position
so that it can be reached from the drivers seat.
3. The suspension.
The easiest improvement,and the one which
will probably bring the single most noticeable change, is to lower and
stiffen the suspension. The car can be lowered about 50mm by fitting shorter
springs at the rear (around 140lbs/in) and adjusting the torsion bars at
the front. Top adjustable dampers are compromised, but are good for road
and track day cars since it allows the suspension 
to
be adjusted between these two, rather different, requirements. The anti-roll
bars can also be replaced with thicker items, around 27mm and 24mm at the
front and rear respectively.
There are then two other main suspension
aims; to reduce the flexiblity in the suspension and to increase the stiffness
of the car, both of which aim at more accurate control of the wheel movement.
To reduce the flexibility it is possible to fit nylon bushes instead of
the normal production rubber items, or if perfection is desired the suspension
can be fitted with metallic bearings (rose joints / rod ends). Spherical
bearing top mounts can also be used. To stiffen the car it is most popular
to fit strut braces. These can be fitted to the front and rear. For more
extreme cases a rollcage can be fitted.....
Into this category also fall the choice
of wheels and tyres. With an increase in power it can be necessary to fit
larger tyres (thus requiring larger wheels) but the temptation to fit the
biggest possible should be resisted. Consideration should be given to fitting
a wider tyre on the rear (since they provide traction) but keeping the
standard, or a wider but not as wide as the rear, tyre at the front. This
will improve the balance of the car and not make the steering too heavy.
4. other things.
Other modifications worth considering include
fitment of a shift light (and rev limiter if there is not one as standard),
higher power bulbs in the headlights (if you are going to go faster you
need to see further) and installation of a quicker steering rack.
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Identification
| Model No. |
Details |
Engine No. |
Variants |
| 116.08 |
Alfetta, berlina, 1779cc, 1972-75 |
AR01608 |
116.09 rhd |
| 116.10 |
Alfetta GT, coupe, 1779cc, 1974-75 |
AR01608*S |
116.11 rhd |
| 116.00 |
Alfetta, berlina, 1570cc, 1974-81 |
AR01600 |
|
| 116.42 |
Alfetta, berlina, 1779cc, 1975-80 |
AR01608*X |
116.09 rhd |
| 116.54 |
Alfetta, GT coupe, 1779cc, from 1975 |
AR01608*X |
116.05 rhd |
| 116.04 |
Alfetta, GT coupe, 1570cc, from 1976 |
AR01600 |
116.02 rhd |
| 116.36 |
Alfetta, GTV coupe, 1962cc, 1976-78 |
AR01623 |
116.37 rhd |
| 116.55 |
Alfetta, berlina, 1962cc, 1977-78 |
AR01623 |
116.56 rhd |
| 116.55C |
Alfetta, berlina, 1962cc, 1978-81 |
AR01655 |
|
| 116.58 |
Alfetta, berlina (for USA), 1962cc, from 1978 |
AR01615 |
|
| 116.36A |
Alfetta GTV, coupe, 1962cc, 1978-83 |
AR01655 |
|
| 116.36D |
Alfetta, GTV Turbodelta coupe, 1962cc, from 1979 |
AR01655 |
|
| 116B |
Alfetta, berlina, 1995cc turbodiesel, 1979-83 |
4HT/2 |
|
| 116.42A |
Alfetta, berlina, 1779cc, 1980-81 |
AR01678 |
|
| 116C |
GTV6, coupe, 2492cc, 1980-83 |
AR01646 |
|
| 116B1A |
Alfetta, berlina, 1570cc, from 1981 |
AR01600 |
|
| 116B2 |
Alfetta, berlina, 1779cc, from 1981 |
AR01678 |
|
| 116.55F |
Alfetta, berlina, 1962cc, from 1981 |
AR01655 |
|
| 116.55M |
Alfetta Quadrifoglio, berlina, 1962cc, from 1982 |
AR01334 |
|
| 116.58C |
Alfetta Quadrifoglio Oro, berlina, 1962cc, 1982-83 |
AR01674 |
|
| 116.36C |
GTV, coupe, 1962cc, from 1983 |
AR01655 |
|
| 116CA |
GTV6, coupe, 2492cc, from 1983 |
AR01646 |
|
| 116B3 |
Alfetta, berlina, 2393cc turbodiesel, from 1983 |
4HT/2.4 |
|
| 116.55N |
Alfetta Quadrifoglio Oro, berlina, 1962cc, from 1983 |
AR01713 |
|
| 116BA |
Alfetta, berlina, 1995cc
turbodiesel, from 1983 |
4HT/2 |
|
Note that also the Giulietta (1977 to 1985) had the model number 116.
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Maintenance
Regarding the GTV6, one of the most frequent
problems is with the timing belt tensioner - use a 164
item. They perform better and last longer.
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Buying / Selling
Some tips to do before selling :
(they may seem obvious, but most people don't do them and thus are in a weaker bargaining position)
Tidy inside the car thoroughly : hoover
the floor, empty all pockets, ashtrays (wash), glove compartment etc...,
wipe the trim with a damp cloth, give the cockpit a good airing to get
rid of any odours ! Reset the trip meter to 00000 - it is a pleasant (subconcious) surprise.
If the car has been standing give it a
good run - this will clear out the engine (reduce exhaust smoke), put a
shine on the brake discs and loosen up any joints that may otherwise make some noises.
'Back to black' products are very effective
at temporarily restoring bumpers and trim. This makes a big difference
to any car. Do it a week before you expect people to view the car, otherwise it may be a bit too obvious !
Jetwash under the car, especially under
the engine and in the wheelarches. The prospective buyer may be an enthusiast,
and this makes it easier for them to see what they want to check.
Obviously wash the car and clean the windows !
If you are going to buy a car always check the following :
Checking the bodywork is the starting point.
Pay special attention to the wheelarches (inside if there is no plastic
splash guard), front wing tops, inner wings and suspension mounts, jacking points, sills, door pillars (check
for sagging doors), scuttle panel and windscreen surround and the floor (doors, bonnet and boot/hatch
are also susceptible, but are more easily replaced). If a sunroof is fitted
check around the edge for signs of rust and look for staining of the rooflining indicating water ingress.
Check that there are no mismatching panels,
large areas of discolouration or signs of fresh paint. Compare the paint
colour in the engine bay with that of the exterior.
Check for a damp carpet or the presence
of mould - if the carpet is damp then the floor is almost certainly corroded.
Check the main electrical functions - wipers,
windows, lights etc... try putting the main beam and wipers on at the same
time. Check the headlight reflectors for rust.
Check the brake pedal does not go to the
floor if pressed hard for a long time and check the gearchange for clean engagement.
The engine should be run up to temperature,
check the exhaust for smoke, the condition of the breather (look for mayonnaise),
the condition of the oil filler cap (again white deposits can indicate head
gasket or other serious problems) and the colour of the coolant (preferably
not brown!). If the car has an oil pressure guage this should not drop
below 1 bar at idle, and should be around 3 to 4 bar at speed. Listen to
the noise of the engine, then depress the clutch and engage first gear.
Whatever noise has disappeared was coming from the gearbox, what remains
is from the engine. Listen for thrashing coming from the front of the engine, indicating a worn timing chain,
or a clattering from the top end, indicating excessive valve clearances. Check the colour of the oil using the dipstick. A golden-brown
is best, darker brown is ok, but thick and black should be avoided.
Check tyre wear, uneven patterns could imply a bent chassis.
Always take it for a test drive. Check
that the car tracks in a straight line with no steering input and remains
in a straight line under braking. Check for the gearbox jumping out of secong or third gear, indicating
worn synchromeshes, but don't worry about a sloppy gearlever since the bushes can be replaced inexpensively.
Find a large open area and complete several
lock to lock turns (also in reverse), listening for any noises. Try the
handbrake when moving - seized rear callipers will mean uneven braking or no braking.
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Links
See a GTV6 racecar being rebuilt on this website
An Alfetta saloon website
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For books on these and other Alfa Romeo cars see our Online Bookstore
There is also a list of all our picture galleries (including museums,
motorshows and various events).
Wallpapers/Desktop Backgrounds of numerous Alfa Romeo's also available to download.
Alfetta/GTV/GTV6 comment form
Your Comments
My first car was an alfetta
GTV coupe and I swear by it it is the best car to learn in and also to
drive as a first car due to its characteristic in communicating with the
driver of what is happening to the car and also the car takes corners like
it was on rail tracks. I love it !!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Julian, Australia)
In some ways overrated because it is so uneven in quality, but gorgeous to look at ,the V6 is torquey and fantastic to hear,
and the chassis is so dependable. Feels exotic too when you sit in it ( emphasised when the engine is revved)
But trim and way body put together lets what would have been an absolutely brilliant car down.
Don`t believe stories about the gear change-although varies from car to car- it`s not that bad just slower than 99% of contempories.
You`ve got to at least have a drive of one in your life though if you love cars. (Richard, New Zealand)
1979 alfetta sedan fully restored and fitted with 14by 6 inch chromadora five star pattern offset 17mm. the interior has been updated with gtv6 rearseats and corbaue
racing bucket seats. it has a fuel injected 2 litre with about 118 bhp at 5000rpm.. however if shifting correctly you can
manipulate the tork well. interior was further more taken to a restoration facility and done in black w/new leather gtv6
steering wheel. all in all she is a head turner in the San fransisco area and last but not least a bora exhaust gives the
classsic alfa hum. this is by far the nicest one in town but not the fastest. yes it is a daily driver and dependable...dependable
as an italian car can be when you do nothing but take care of its needs. (yes it's dependable) (Nate D, USA)
I own a GTV6 and I think it´s a one of the best italian cars that ever made.
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